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Much better - Good choice of shade of grey, and at least you can do them again whenever you need to now.
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Looks very nice.
I am thinking you won't be leaving the shocks and inner arches the way they are for too long though. |
Was gonna get Defi's but can't justify the price/outlay at the moment.
But discovered last week that ProSport do a 60mm version. I much prefer 60mm to 52mm and hadn't seen 60mm ProSport in the UK. They only seem to be available in USA or Japan/Hong Kong. For the money, I thought I'd give the Turbo Gauge a trial. All the same features of the Defi, but without having to stash the controller somewhere. Same Black face when off and red illumination too as per the Defi BF. If I'm happy I'll get Oil Temp and Pressure in a month or 2. http://i.ebayimg.com/16/!Bup-4q!BGk~...q!03!~~_12.JPG |
I have the prosport Scott. They lie. :-|
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most do by about 0.1bar, even Defi
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Bricks are alot cheaper then a ramp at Sumo ;) |
Yes thats true. The performance on the other hand is priceless :twisted:
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I have been happy with my prosprorts. Exactly how accurate they are am not sure, I think the boost overreads slightly, but they look good!!
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excellent work so far scott
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Love the darker STI wheels on the hawkeye, although I may be slightly biased :whistle:
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j2...5052011051.jpg |
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V.nice, did you tint the headlights yourself ?? |
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There seem to be conflicting reports as to whether you have to take the bumper off and also whether the hawkeye lights need to go in the oven ?? |
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silversufer,there is a thread on nasioc about painting you headlights with out taking bumper off. its called HOW TO CLEAR O6 HEADLIGHTS AND PAINT :mrgreen:
i brought zunesport upper grills 4 my hawkeye and been trying 2 fit them,but just looked at your car car and it looks like yours is different 2 mine.so i need sti mouldings :-( |
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your welcome let me no if is easy,because if u muck it up its about £800 for second hand lights :mrgreen:
i need 2 get these so my mesh grills fit they want £150 on ebay,which is taking the piss i think |
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Which is why i've left mine alone!! |
Headlight Mods :
This is a modification I identified as a must have even before I bought the Hawkeye STI. It has taken since March to do the research, find the time and make sure my wife was out so I could use the oven ;) Alot of stories about it being much harder then the Blobeye modification, that you have to take the bumper of and the headlights are very expensive if you break them......but I thought in Top Gear style 'How Hard Can It Be' !!!!!! Before Modification : http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...d/100_8640.jpg 1. Mask up around edge of headlight and around edges of centre and left/right grills. These need to come out to gain access to the headlight mounting bolts. 2. Remove large trim clips from top edge of bumper, along slam panel. 3. Remove small trim clips holding grills in place, and 1 small trim clip on each top edge of headlight. 4. Remove centre grill by placing hand down behind and releasing 4 plastic clips, 2 easg side. 5. Remove left and right hand grills in a similar fashion. They are a bit of a fiddle but they will come out and you will realise why masking the bumper is a good idea. 6. Remove the single M6 bolt from the top of the headlight where it bolts to the slam panel. 7. Remove the 2 M6 bolts, 2 M6 nuts and 1 trim clip that hold the headlight in place that are located behind the grill you have just removed. 8. Now comes the removal of the light. Give it a wiggle and a tug on the outer/wing edge. It should partly pop out (If anyone has removed the sidelight on a classic they will be familiar with the pin/clip that hold it into the wing retainer). Tilt the light forward and try to get it under the slam panel as far as possible, making sure the mounting bracket that was un-bolted previously draws of it's mounting bolts . The light will not fully come out like this, but once it is as far as possible place your hand behind the light and lift up, you should now be able to see between the bottom of the light and the bumper to see what's stopping it coming forward. Basically nothing is stopping at apart from the base of the light just touching the top edge of the appature/bumper lip. A twist and a shove from behind should pop it out, all the time making sure the mounting bracket hasn't managed to slip back onto it's mount bolts. 9. At this stage it will be partly out bar from the loom connector. Disconnect these and your done. Steps 1 - 9 above took me approx 30 mins, alot quicker then i thought it would take. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...d/100_8642.jpg 10. Repeat the above for the other light. I managed to get this one out alot quicker after learning on the other side. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...d/100_8643.jpg Looks quite cool don't it http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...d/100_8645.jpg 11. Retire to the comfort of the kitchen breakfast bar http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...d/100_8647.jpg 12. Remove the 5 self-tapping screws from the rear of the light. 13. I also removed the Ballast resistor that's screwed to the bottom of the housing, as didn't want to risk damaging that in the oven. Remove the 3 screws holding this in place and disonnect the cable harness from it. 14. Set oven to 100 DegC and timer to 10 mins, place light in oven on baking tray. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...d/100_8648.jpg Yes I know the oven door needs cleaning, but that's not my department....... 15. Remove after 10 minutes and leaver open the headlight with a large flat blade screwdriver, it comes apart wuite easy. I started at the bottom incase the screwdriver damaged/marked the plastics. It did make small marks but by the time you work round to the top edge which will be visible when re-fitted, it comes off easier and hence doesn't mark the plastic. Once it is loose and you have a gap one end it can be pulled apart by hand. Cut or catch the excess sealant as you go. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...d/100_8650.jpg 16. You now have 2 halves. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...d/100_8651.jpg 17. Put rear section to one side after tapping the stringy/excess sealant roughly back in place. Do the same with the front lense. 18. Remove the self-tapper screws that hold the refelctor in place on the front lense. Then remove the reflector http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...d/100_8652.jpg 19. I then masked a ring around the HID apature to maintain a chrome ring. Some people spray the whole reflector black, other spray a coloured rings around the HID. But I decide to stick with chrome. 20. Spray reflector with colour of your choice. I used Satin Black Plasti-kote. 21. Remove masked HID ring and ready for re-fitting http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...d/100_8655.jpg 22. Refit refelctor into lense. 23. To soften the sealant prior to refitting I placed both halves back in the over for 5 mins at 100DegC. 24. Remove from oven and while still hot quickly push two halves together and screw back in place. 25. Refit ballast resistor......job done in about 30 mins including paint (dried with hair drier) Compared lights : http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...d/100_8658.jpg 26. Repeat for other side. Took approx 2 hours to remove dismantle, paint and re-assemble both lights. All back in the car, fitting back was easier then taking out, although highly recommend the use of plenty of masking tape to protect the surrounding area's. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...d/100_8666.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...d/100_8671.jpg And another little mod whils I was there.... Been trying to De-Pink the front end and failed a few times with re-painting the STI badge to my satisfation (quite tricky due to the bi-colour embossed badge). Decided to by an aftermarket Red badge. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...d/100_8660.jpg Found by pure fluke that the one I ordered had the 'Red' bits stuck to the 'Black' bit. A sharp blade and some cotton managed to seperate the 2. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...d/100_8661.jpg Re-Paint the 'Red' bits http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...d/100_8662.jpg Re-Fit, while Grill was off the car http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...d/100_8663.jpg A few more pic's out in daylight. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...d/100_8673.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...d/100_8679.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...d/100_8678.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...d/100_8677.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...d/100_8694.jpg |
Triple Gauge Pod and Pioneer Double Din SatNav/Bluetooth hands free :
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...T/100_3699.jpg |
New Wheels & Tein Lowering Springs :
BEFORE TEINS FITTED : http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...T/100_3274.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...T/100_3276.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...T/100_3278.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...T/100_3287.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...T/100_3288.jpg AFTER TEINS FITTED : (dropped an extra 14mm front, 20mm rear) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...T/100_3678.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...T/100_3687.jpg |
Random sources used to develop my version of an RCM style induction kit, with hardpipe.
70 - 160mm Trumpet from Regal Motorsport 70mm SFS Hoses from Ramair/SFS 70-90mm stainless hoseclips via Ebay 160mm K&N Filter from RCM MAF Tube / Hardpipe, think this was part of one of Niges old Induction Kit cast offs I found in my garage ..... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...T/104_4435.jpg Hoses will need cutting down by about 50%, but you get the idea : http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...T/104_4436.jpg |
The car is looking sweet mate. Nice work. :ok::ok:
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Induction kit Fitted.
Required a bit of trimming of the MAF tube and also didn't end up using much SFS Silicon hose. So will put what's left to use elsewhere (if Throttle intake is same diameter). http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...T/100_9155.jpg Ally Bracket knocked up to give it a bit of support : http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...T/100_9156.jpg General Engine Shot : http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...T/100_9157.jpg |
Looking good Scott :ok:
I wish I had your talent for what you have done so far :worthy: |
Engine bays looking nice mate, lovely and clean :doubleup:
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Looking good Scott
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Who is a clever boy then
Very nice. :10::worthy: |
Cheers guy's.
Couple of runs up the road this evening and a Reflash or 3 of the Ecu sorted the MAF scaling for now. Will perfect it another time after I have re-free air cal'd my permanant wideband. it needed re'cal at the weekend but only had time for an in-situ cal which is not the best as it was reading a touch lean before the filter swap today. |
Looking really good, did it free any horses up at all?
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spot on silversufer,so wots next on your build.
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Hel Brake Lines DBA4000 Drilled/Grooved disks ATE Racing Blue Brake Fluid Hopefully all going on this weekend ;) |
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I doubt it will give anything as the AFR is pegged to the same, although I do plan to lean it out and raise the boost to 1.5bar at some point. The road dyno is also a bit subjective, although the last 2 runs I did before swapping the filter came back with the same numbers. |
Scott, if you haven't got the PF pads I have some new rears and fronts with about 20 miles on them you can have for a good price :ok
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Hi Greg, got fronts sorted from Alyn but defo interested in rears for when i get the matched rear dba disks later on.
Pm me a price mate....... |
DBA4000 Disks and PF Pads went on last weekend.
Stainless Hel Brake lines and a full bleed through might happen next weekend, if weather OK. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...T/104_4824.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...T/104_4825.jpg |
Looks great Scott, where did you buy the gold paint for the hubs?
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