FMIC/OC fitting The stealth look! - Ginola's Project thread
 

Hmm not sure what to do both sets of my wheels won't fit :( and Ricky didn't like the bbs's or speedlines. Though he offered to sell me some wheels! ;)

Could run bit more timing between 4500 - 5500rpm (the normal 'Det' hot spot), as the curve is drooping a touch.
It would sustain the torque plateau a bit better too, removing that torque spike.

FMIC/OC fitting The stealth look! - Ginola's Project thread
 

Yeah there is definitely scope to push the timing up there in the mid range, Rich had said as much also. He said 450 even 460 or beyond is possible at this boost level with a little more aggressive timing at the top also which was encouraging, definitely don't really want to push more boost on the standard gaskets and head bolts, although we tested at 1.75 and all was fine only dyno'd at 1.7

Fuelling is around 11.5 to 11.7

Boost creeping up at 5500 WOT is also worth a look at.
If that run was in 3rd or 4th on the Dyno the effect out on the road will be higher and for longer in 5th and 6th. So a potential hazard for track style driving where your clicking upto 120+ in the higher gears.

Yeah 4th on the dyno, not sure if it had something to do with the avcr still learning or being in learn mode in 4th and 5th, but quite often hit the top of 5th on track, it has always seemed to creep a little there

Your running an AVCR on an OEM ECU !!!!!! Shocking.........

You knew this ;) I'm not the only one!

Syvecs coming soon ;)

great results matey:ok: and it was quick enough at 385

I don't recall......

Think we chatted about it for a while over a breakfast last year in Battle :)

Standard ecu struggles to control boost past 1.5/ 1.6 bar as far as I am aware.

I remember you saying about 3d boost mapping was better on the standard ecu.

5 mins with a spanner, for a quick addition..

http://i1366.photobucket.com/albums/...pss9staaa3.jpg

Im trying to remember what wasnt there before but going have a guess bonnet dampers .

I'm not sure either... I obviously don't look in Dave's engine bay enough! I think it might be dampers too Scotty.

Yep, those green things I reckon :getmecoat:

That's going to be .001 sec a lap slower now then.

It'll save me time shutting your bonnet at meets :D

ha ha ha - looking smart :ok:
That car is an amazing machine...Love the sound...:ok: Credit to you Dave :ok:

Small update again,

I have managed to lay my hands on something that makes the car stop a little better, after realising with recent increases to power that straight line speed down the straights on trackdays has gone up by a fair whack this seemed a prudent move.

I had a prompt from a friendly fellow trackday addict that these little numbers where coming up for sale so a deal was done!.. they are a bit of tight fit under 18's!

Please excuse the dirty wheel arches in the pics ;)

http://i1366.photobucket.com/albums/...psqogh25uq.jpg

http://i1366.photobucket.com/albums/...psmhnvy1oh.jpg

http://i1366.photobucket.com/albums/...psgnwnw9pi.jpg

That is a tight fit, sigh of relief when you got the wheels over I bet? Look the dogs though Dave and certainly suggests you are running a decent set up under the bonnet!

you going to paint match the rears?

Trying to keep it stealthy! indeed.. doesnt fit under both sets :-?

Handbrake said.. "don't bother" but I am tempted.. also tempted to get the rear kit.. if I win the lottery :shock:

Though I did take a quick look the other night to try and find some "alcon" coloured paint as the rears will need a refresh and rebuild at some point in the not too distant future.

That was going to be my next question... Shame, I guess the other wheels will have to be sold to return some funds?

The fact you have 'disfigured' your fog light covers only adds to that stealthy look, ha!

I still have the originals for that extra stealthy look if the need arises!

Yes will have to pop them up for sale I guess.. I don't want too as really like those wheels! but needs must and so on. I've been trying to find suitable replacements.. must be super light.. must look awesome and not be tacky etc etc.. its not easy!

Now they are very nice.
Well done!

Fitted Some new front pads today, Pagid RS29.. All im saying is... Holly crap what a difference! Super sharp bite and pedal response to gentle modulation, think I need some for the rear now!

Also bought some minor fueling bits and pieces to make a little improvement, watch this space.

Sounds good, I really need to do something about my WRX rears!

Sounds good Dave :ok: - with your power you need decent brakes eh..

Glad a new set of pads made for a big improvement, I presume you were using the pads that came with those calipers when you bought them, any idea what they were?

look forward to hearing more about you fueling improvements, get some more 'go juice' flowing :norty:

Oh really wonder what colour they are :grin:

:10:

Bit of an update,

After finding out I needed a new OS CV joint on Thursday right before our ring trip.. I went into mad panic and frantically sourced not 1 but 2!, making a quick visit to FB Tuning Rich was very helpful in fitting the thing and while it was up on the ramp. bleeding the brakes.. he also kindly moved the fuel cut at 1.76 bar which I have run into a few times recently on slightly more aggressive boost duty settings, while performing lazy 5th gear overtakes.

Once again big thanks to Rich who always helps me out in my times of need!


Today!

A rather savage trip over the mountain on the Isle of Man recently had me boil (in traffic afterwards) my PFC dot4 racing brake fluid that had only been bled threw a month or so before..:sad: Nevertheless this made it abundantly clear to me it was time to do something about this and try to do it properly.

So I set about gathering bits to improve the brake cooling efficiency - which is pretty piss poor on Subaru's in all honesty, and finally today found time to throw it all on the car.

bits used:-

Roo-ducts (US import) - they look like hospital piss pipes or something!
76mm heatproof 2 ply silicon pipe.
102mm neoprene 2 ply pipe
92mm neoprene 2 ply left overs
76mm Revotec exit ducts
Some scrap aluminium plate.
Silicon sealant.
Hamarite under seal with wax-oil
Jubile clips.
Hand full of rivets
Zip ties.... lots and lots of zipties!

First things first.

Mount the wheel arch roo-ducts.. this involved sizing them up and then drilling a few holes and tapping them etc. I read somewhere on a US forum that you needed to space the bottom bolt hole otherwise it causes cracking! so did this too, filled all the drilled/tapped holes with hammerite underseal/waxoil and then bolted them up.

http://i1366.photobucket.com/albums/...psdqhhavr1.jpg

I then fed both sides with 102mm neoprene pipe (which is massive by the way!)
although I was forced to step down the size of the pipework to 92mm on the passenger side due to room and angular constraints presented by the location of the IC pipes and Oil cooler.. very tempted to re-root all of it!

This process involves some trimming of the wheel arch liners (been here before!), silicon sealing the pipe to the existing standard brake duct holes in the front bumper + some zip ties :lol:

http://i1366.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1xemmdju.jpg

http://i1366.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9xygesfa.jpg

Once happy with the all the pipework feeding the roo-ducts I started work on fabricating some simple brackets out of some scrap plate aluminium and revotec exit ducts, they ended up looking something like this..

http://i1366.photobucket.com/albums/...psw6vvtc6l.jpg

http://i1366.photobucket.com/albums/...psvk30hy6p.jpg

Once fitted look something like this..

http://i1366.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3nmkmqum.jpg

Other side with pipework attached

http://i1366.photobucket.com/albums/...pshgtyouf6.jpg

while fitting these was very careful not to interfere with ABS sensor.
http://i1366.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0eq3khpf.jpg

Once all in place and lots of revolutions of the steering wheel back and forth by my excellent assistant Handbrake, making sure all was solid I secured a couple of thin strips of rubber to stop any chaffing of the pipe on the coilovers/ ABS sensor.





As you can see once its all back together the clearances are nice!

NS
http://i1366.photobucket.com/albums/...pspr3m8xkx.jpg
OS
http://i1366.photobucket.com/albums/...pswnnveksu.jpg

Clearance to the tyres is a little on the close side!
http://i1366.photobucket.com/albums/...psdshikznj.jpg

Needless to say tyres (of a different size!) getting fitted in next few days ;)

Finished..!
Also found time to re trim and fresh piece of grill for behind the oil cooler.
Next project Might be to seal it all in with some kind of bigger improved splitter I think!

http://i1366.photobucket.com/albums/...pslafsrx7w.jpg


Going out for a spirited drive afterwards and quickly measuring the brakes once arriving home, both discs where under 80 degrees C which is very encouraging.

More to follow.

Wow! That is some serious fettling Dave :ok:

Amazing ingenuity and looks very tidy indeed - cracking job :ok:

Good work, looks pretty neat and tidy and if effective should really help out. Surprised you didn't go all out on a water cooling system 😉

I presume you have no backing plates behind this bigger brake set up and used the subsequently spare bolt hole to attach the alu plate?

Some of the bits look rusty is that normal or are we needing to rustproof?/ replace?

Looks good too xxxxx

FMIC/OC fitting The stealth look! - Ginola's Project thread
 

Yes unfortunately we need all new spec-c Ra running gear.. Will explain later but have to be done very soon!

FMIC/OC fitting The stealth look! - Ginola's Project thread
 

Aye rob that's correct, seems pretty effective after my brief "test" last night, I thought about chopping up the old dust seals to do this but felt this might be neater, I still might chop them up and fit to those instead for fun!

Hahahahaha... I mean, yes Wanda, that is what is needed unfortunately due to some rusty bits...

You need something like this Dave.....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4.../Spindle-1.jpg