DIY - Classic STi/Newage STi & WRX 2004> Shock Refurb
 

The below shows a refurbishment of Classic STi shocks.
If using this as a guide to refurbish Newage knocking shocks please ensure you locate the grease nipples in the correct place in the grease chamber, as they may require slightly different locations compared to a Classic.

I purchased Tim's P1 suspension, primarily for the springs, after his upgrade to Eibach Coilover's, so although no knocks/banging/sticking was reported I thought I would have a go at giving them a refurb as the compression and rebound showed signs that they could do with a re-grease..
First thing you will notice is that someone decided to 1/2 paint them black :kicknuts:

The springs have already been sent off and re-powder coated see : http://www.southeastscoobies.co.uk/v...ad.php?t=17904 (which probably won't be going back on these shocks)

So now it's time to strip down.

1st thing do to is to coat the bottom retaining nut with WD40 and leave for 20 mins or so. Then give the nut and it's protruding thread a good attack with a wire brush.
This ensures that you remove all rust and paint deposits before attempting to remove the nut.

If you do what I did on the rear strut's, like a bull in a china shop and 5 minutes of madness one evening. I tried to remove the nut without this 1st process, the rust bound in the thread and it siezed (the internal retainer is also quite soft and this will round off at which point the whole internal assembly spins :eek:).

At this point you can either throw them in the bin or get the angle grinder out to grind the nut off the thread.
I did the latter hoping your local friendly mechanic can apply weld to the now damaged thread and secure/weld it all back in place.

If the WD40 process is followed the nut should come of fairly easy, as it did with the front struts.

Rear Shock apart, and 5mm hole drilled for tapping & M6 grease nipple fitting :
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...ps3962927a.jpg

Start the tapping, leaving all the old yellow grease inside the shock housing, as this will help to catch the swarf and will be removed later:
Note that the condition of the yellow grease (not a smooth surface finish) shows that it hasn't been making much contact with the damper. It is also quite hard and wax like to touch.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...ps90effb6a.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...pscde07e18.jpg

Grease nipple fitted, showing fitting positions for 'REAR' shocks :
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...psc0505c36.jpg

Front Shock stripped down (Note : Damper & Bumpstop cleaned of all grease):
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...pse1b516d5.jpg

Method of removing all grease, was a combination of finger, old rag and an adapted wooden spoon :
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...psb4dbffd3.jpg

Not sure I will use it to stir the beans again :
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...ps61d1051b.jpg

Grease Nipple fitting position for 'FRONT' Shock :
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...ps5c8a0056.jpg

Before re-assembly clean rust off collar of the shock housing with dremell/sandpaper.
Coat damper with grease, and also fill upper cavity just below the rubber seal on the shock housing collar with grease prior to re-assemble :
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...ps1acd3068.jpg

A large % of the grease will come out as you re-insert the damper. The main purpose of applying the grease is to ensure smooth re-entry ;) and that the metal contacting parts get an initial layer of grease. A grease gun will be used at a later stage.

Wipe off Excess Grease, and re-fit/tighten the bottom retaining nut (or get it welded back if the nut is mullered)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...ps0de37397.jpg

To Be Continued............................

Nice :) looking forward to the rest, are you going to get the shocks painted as well once finished?

Yes, Once their all back together and the rears are welded they will get prepped and a few coats of plasti-kote.

Looking good so far Scott liking the grease nipple idea good little mod to refill with grease when needed .

It's not a new idea as it's a common thing, more so on newage as they seem to knock out their shocks quicker.
The grease nipples primary function is to pack as much grease in as possible to ensure longevity. It shouldn't need using again once done and could potentially be replaced with a small m6 bolt.

You say this is for 2004 shocks onwards. Would the pre 2004 (bugeye) shocks be much different to these? I've got a coulpe of knocky noises coming from mine which i'm eager to sort out as my mot is coming up in a couple of months.

I don't think the bug has the inverted shock design that can be disassembled.
Easiest way is to jack it up and check thickness of damper insert.
It will either be the large type as above or a much smaller version with an external bump stop.