Advice on tightening up My sti handiling
 

Hi guys. i currently own a 02 Sti Type uk. I have fitted new Kyb Ultra SR shocks and H&R sport springs the other day along with new oem front drop links, the car also has strut braces front and rear, and nearly new Hankook ventus v12 tyres all round on rota gra wheels.
brakes are 2 piece front rotas and track pads, stock rear.

Now i took the car out for a real good stick last night out threw the contry, mix of tight and sweeping bends, and i'm not impressed. it feels very unsatable, the rear feels loose, coming into corners i can feel the rear starting to lift, and on exit its kicking the rear every time. once i got understeer which i expect alot more to be fair.
i just seem to be fighting the steering wheel alot,

can anyone help with suggestion what i could do with improving it..

I think a new rear arb and geo?

Yes, ARBs. It transforms the car, get adjustables, and stout rear mounts. Trouble is with anyone you buy, it will look pants after a year.

As above try Arb's next

ARBs then definitely get the geo checked - if its out it'll make a big difference once sorted :)

Do you know the geometry settings you currently have?

A thicker rear ARB is more likely to cause the back to step out isn't it? So I am not sure that is necessarily the answer to the concerns raised.

Subframe locking bolts might help remove the rear "loose" feeling you have described.

My initial thoughts are go and get a laser alignment check done (most places do the check for free) and see if there is anything obviously out of whack. If not, consider changing the toe and camber to suit your needs.

I bet there will be someone on here with a good understanding of what you're after, but if you take it to a place that understands fast road setups they will be able to sort it out based on what handling attributes you ask for.

Does sound like a problem with the setup if it's that bad, I would do as Banstead adviced at first before throwing money at it

either your using the throttle to unsettle the car or more likely your Geo is way out..............

Deffo not me scooby number 7 and only one todo this. Sounds the geo is a must then. Thanks

Get a fast road geo setup done and go from there. (you probably know your own preferred settings for this.)

With the mods you have done already it should handle reasonably well.

If its lowered, by any considerable amount then I would seriously consider roll centre correction even before fitting ARB's. This will really help sort the steering out, getting rid of any bump-steer you might have.

I bought hardrace rollcenter correction balljoints. and fitted them to mine, other than coilovers this was the best handling modification done to my car!, (that includes eibach adjustable ARB's!),

Let us all know how you get on.

Thanks for the info, what does this do then buddy 'hardrace rollcenter correction balljoints'? over the oem ball joints?

all explained here :-

http://www.hardrace.co.uk/bump-steer

thanks, alot of nice bits that are tempting me.. still unsre on the 22 or 24mm rear arb, is the front stock 22mm size?

I wouldn't have thought so, although I don't know ISTi's brilliantly.

19mm/20mm as standard on the front would be my guess.

Just my opinion, I am no expert though ??

Get the geo checked,

24 mm on the rear on the middle setting,

keeping the front as is..

If you go 24 mm you need the strengthened mount..

( that is what I have):doubleup:

Don't touch the front other then new droplinks or bushes.
24mm ARB on rear

Did Vince check the alignment ?
I am sure he would of done as he's quite anal about that.

I will avoid using the word 'geo' as it is a very over used word and only a very limited number or places can truly do this. The difference 'geo' makes over a correctly 'aligned' car for road use will be minimal (and in most cases can't be fully 'geo'd due to adjusment limitations). Any benefits are normally placebo effect with the owner trying to justfy the benefit due to the financial outlay.

After thinking this is what ive decided to do,
24mm rear arb.
uprated drop links front and rear,
uprated ball joints
uprated track rod ends.
replace subframe mounts as had alook under the car and can see movement there.
then a laser align

I had 24 m arb drop links all round chassis bolts
And anti lift plus fast road geo done with james and it ironed out every issue i have wvet had.
If theres a problem now its with the driver!
I run out of skills before the car runs out of handling capabilities

Chassis bolts and allignment made a huge difference to back end feel

I agree with what has been said here so far. Can chat more tomorrow on some settings ive used on both cars...you could consider AL kit as said with your current shopping list but most of all I would suggest a camber bolt or two. I've got a pack of eibachs if you need.

That will be needed for the rear as usually you can get enough camber adjustment on the front without them for some decent "fast road" settings :). I'd speak to Brent at SMD or someone closer if you can find, I was not happy at all with Langley's.

I've got camber bolts for the rear of mine aswell as subframe lock kit.
I might actually get round to fitting them tomorrow.

James gave me his pro drive ones out of his race car lol

Handling is a strange one if it's for multi purpose .
On the road mines horrid , get it on track and it's awesome :)
Trackday yesterday with only 0.8 bar of boost due to fueling issues so around 340bhp and not much could catch us other than a busa caterham .
As for arbs change them both to 24mm . It's a myth that changing the front at the same time will leave you with the same issue .
Speak to Alan @ AS performance he'll sort you out with what you really need and at a very good price .

Curious what you would reccomend for mine CJ as far as ARBs:worthy:?

Would I be wise to do both or just front?

Both
As for rear stiff mounts if you give me a pair of oe ones I'll make them solid for £25

Ok, what size would you say for the type r? I thought 22 maybe?

22mm if to be used on rd otherwise 24mm

I have the eibach kit 23mm front 24 rear, updated drop links alk and replaced standard front links as these are good anyway.....and have some coil overs ready to go on

Good stuff thanks guys.

Where can you buy the rear subframe lock bolt kit from in the UK? Buying direct from whiteline costs £90 in p&p?!?! :shock:

Here.

I wouldn't bother with it

Cheers Stig shall keep that in mind for the future :ok:

Think I got mine from scoobyparts.co uk but not fitted ot yet

how does the lock out kit actually help? any any pics on the car?

I think the OE part has rubber, so an all metal part would eliminate the movement due to rubber

It's just 2 bolts that secure the subframe using existing empty holes in the subframe. Therefore preventing any movement on the existing rubber bushed mountings.

cool, will add to purchase list

we stock and supply all WHITELINE part amongst the various others we do..................

as for £90 for a lock kit, think you must have asked for 3x or more......:wink:

Alyn what would you recommend

For a fast road, with the odd track day set up.

Would it include an anti lift kit?

It was £90 just for the p&p Alyn, plus the item price on top, was definitely only 1 kit hence my shock.