Causes to engine failures,
 

Looking To increase the reliability of the Wrx, what have people found causes them to have issues or lead to full engine failure?
Taking mine to the ring in August so trying to source bits to help make it home :-)

Dont drive at high speeds for a length of time or you could be waiting 3 weeks for your car to return talking from experience lol .

Breakdown cover in Europe who did you use and any issues ?
i was thinking of using my AA cover and adding temp Europe cover but would like to know if people have had issues etc

what caused it to go tho? was there a component failure? mix of things etc?

Heat soak at speed of 145mph so overheated i lost all coolant this was over about 5 miles done a good job as engine builder stripped the engine found i warpped the heads , cooked the oil and think i ****ed 3 rods aswell . I used AA for european breakdown they were good as they use ADAC out in Germany my car got dropped off at the subaru dealership i was back in scotland the next day as they sorted hire cars for the journey home .

That's really good to know about the Aa.
Sounds like it really destroyed itself then

The occasional high speed blat is ok on the autobahns (not uphill!) but if you're on a TMIC then bring it back down to 80ish fairly quick, the scoop isn't that effective at sucking air in at higher speeds.

Rest is usual good maintenance, check for perished hoses, fluids all good, radiator not tired - any original newage rad will be pretty knackered by now, I was shocked at the state of the one on my bug even though it had no leaks....

Interesting that the AA covered you on a classic with no problems Scotty, will look into that. My usual European breakdown cover for the scoob (that I source through Moley) is no longer an option as they don't allow the policy to renew once the car is over 15 years old :(

Did you only have the standard temperature gauge, or did you have any aftermarket gauges fitted?

Steve the AA changed the age limit on the cars in 2014 so you should be all good :-D

Just standard temp gauge and an aftermarket boost gauge engine was original and only mods was a induction kit and full 3" decat fitted when i bought the car but replace ****y hks induction kit for rcm k&n .

I will check my rad over. The car running gear is bone stock bar the prodrive rear box . (Very tame)

Think RAC cover older cars as well, mine must have been 15 years old when I took it.
I know you were asking about engine Reliability but I'd have a good look at all the steel brake lines to see what condition they are in.

Il check them out , underneath is pretty good so not to worried on that front but I will have a look .

If its original its the front side that goes, the rear that is visible from the engine bay looked perfect on mine but the front was flaking away when touching it - but its hidden behind A/C rad so not noticeable. Mine did this when lightly running my finger along it.. just started turning to dust :(

http://www.southeastscoobies.co.uk/v...ps6zdpl0vv.jpg

It's a pain in the ass as you can't really see the problem without removing the rad and therefore draining coolant. Hopefully yours is in better condition than mine was! :)

How much was your rad Steve ?
I've placed an order with alyn for
Millers engine oil , box oil , diff oil and coolant, plugs grade 7, cosworth panel filter , genuine oil filter , fuel filter , walbro 255 ,one of his clubman baffled Sumps , new grp n engine mounts as one of mines gone.
So I may do the rad to be safe if not to expensive as going to replace the rad hoses too with genuine ones.
This is all just to be safe I have thought if I can get the time to put it on SRR and get the fueling checked out too ,

Sure alyn will do a deal on the rad - if not ICP do them for just over £100 I think..

Nice sensible list you have there...

Can't remember off the top of my head but Alyn supplied it, think it was something like £80-90?

He had a blob one in stock so went with that as needed it quickly, but it has the extra rad cap on it. This fouls the hard pipe that carries coolant to the overflow bottle, so had to get a blob version of the pipe from JPP as well. There's some pics that show what I mean here:
http://www.southeastscoobies.co.uk/v...?t=5388&page=6

:)

Oh yes i see what you mean,
ive had a good look at my rad this morning as my headlights and grill are out so easy access around . it looks alright but i think i may just replace it as the rad hoses has been replaced with a aftermarket version that feel flimsy so i these need swapping out.

I put a new oem bottom rad hose on with new oem clips when i put a new rad on but kept the the samco top hose on and put a new 1.3 sti header tank cap on aswell .

The issue at high speed is not really engine temps but inlet temps.

As Steve says the scoop (especially the bugeye) is ineffective over about 100mph ad the air flow is lifted above it by the front of the car and as a result the TMIC loses efficiency. As the inlet temps increase this leads to a higher chance of detonation which if severe can quickly destroy valves, pistons, rods and bearings!

I'd look at possibly adding an STI scoop as a minimum and ideally an STI intercooler & undertray.

Oil temps need monitoring as well - Millers quote the CFS Nano as suitable for operating up to 125 centigrade with a peak of 150 centigrade. Running too hot too long will cause the oil to start to break down and you could risk bearing failure or worse. - consider an temp gauge and possibly even an oil cooler.

I am having the sti7 scoop painted as we speak. The wrx version is poor.
this being my 1st wrx spec car im trying to look into solutions to help pre long the life of the bearings. as unsure on the less strength these short blocks have compared to my previous sti models.
A gauge or cooler could be something else i need to think about.
I am going to put a new rad in too with hoses then i know the cooling systems is all in top health, the car is on stock map /cats etc so it is very under powered which should help and im not a high speed nutter either.

What caused your bug to fail at the ring?

this was my wrx engine after prolonged high speed on a hot day

https://image.ibb.co/fMPWJJ/33962698...03216128_n.jpg

What mods where you running? and you thinking cooked the oil or did something fail that caused major fail?

pretty sure cooked oil, was running sti top mount, vf34, sti pink injectors, and other pretty standard mods, was at 350bhp on that engine,

Big E!

No seriously I chased Big E on the Autobahn up a moderately steep hill running full boost/throttle for about 4-5 mins. My WRX was running around 370BHP at 1.4 Bar - I threw a bearing on cylinder 3 I think it was. No significant damage to the block, rods or Pistons. Think it was a combination of oil temp and also some Set as I was on an ECUTek map without the protection of syvecs knock detection!

That's very interesting, thank you guys for posting, I gather extra heat as running far more than stock so al ot more charged air flowing through, i think more i read its best to stick with the stock td04 maxed out than go the next stage up. along with oil temp/Press gauges should help. just looking at oil coolers but baffled as prices range up and down.

Try Merlin motorsport... there 115 10 row isn’t expensive (£60 something)and you can buy the bracket kit on the too for just over £30...

Or ring HEL who do the complete kit with thermostatic sandwich plate but again ask for the 115mm 10 row cooler as with anything bigger it needs some modifying on a bug.. also ask for an extra half metre of braided hose so you can redirect it round various bits under the car and heat wrap... whole kit initially cost me £320 I think but that included a 250mm 12 row cooler.

See my project thread if you want to see what it’s like..

Cheers fella i've had a look and reading into all now,
Alyn has sorted me out a Blob rad with extra overflow so cheers guys for input,

See that's what happens when you play with a virtually standard WR1,

Ask Scotty and Spuky (Duncan) too..:asskiss::asskiss:

Steve PPPs WRX has had a lot of abuse and is also virtually standard too AFAIK..
and is still going I believe he has a baffled sump which is a good mod and not too much money.

That Wr1 of yours may look standard but its not for it to go like it does :drive::ninja:

Baffled sump is on its way to me.
The list is getting big, still need to source a rear diff .

Theres a few diffs on fb forsale .

It's finding one close to home , little fed up of fb sale groups not sending or sending poor stuff

It goes because it's got 17stone pushing the right pedal down.:ok:

:lol:

Thought you was behind me when the engine let go Nick, remember watching in my rear view as you disappeared, didn’t know it was engine probs tho

Guys been looking at gauges it seems I have two options ,
1) Perrin sandwich plate and take the sensors from off this .
2) buy the fittings that remove the stock oil pressure switch and fit into the top of the block under the alternator and the temp sender under the tmic area of the block.

Is there any pros or cons doing it either way ?
If using the stock locations did any one manage to keep the standard oil check light also ?

i bought these for mine, not fitted yet but they will be going on within the week i hope:

Setrab oil cooler kit(the cooler on this is really chunky, seems pretty decent): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/273232461...m=273232461225

Oil pressure gauge with sender: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-P...53.m2749.l2649

Oil temp Gauge with sender: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-P...53.m2749.l2649

if you get something like this you can keep your stock oil pressure light/switch: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Oil-Press...53.m2749.l2649

tbh i only went with those gauges as they match my boost gauge, plus i've not heard bad things about that brand

Ive been reading up the past hour or so and going to run-
these, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ANY-3-GAU...0944%7Ciid%3A1

with this, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Oil-Temp-...0944%7Ciid%3A1

i did some reading and found it seems better to run them not in a sandwhich plate but using the factory ports.
Green lite gauges to match the rest of green lights subaru use.

yeh mine are using the original ports, but sandwich plate for oil cooler

I ditched the engine oil pressure light totally and just put the pressure sensor straight into the block - the gauge will warn you of low pressure long before the light come on!

on that note, what sort of oil pressure is safe/good? and what pressure should i be worried about, dont fancy having my new engine blown up after the hassle of changing engines today

Cold start up on mine is 6.8 to 7.0 bar, hot tick over it is 3.1 to 3.4 bar.:ok: