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Old 29-01-2018, 07:04 PM
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IBenjieI IBenjieI is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Seaford, East Sussex
Posts: 197
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Yesterday I got round to fitting a boost gauge and ATI/DEFI Gauge Pod. This will be a semi-how to;

*Disclaimer* I will not be held responsible for any mistakes that YOU make whilst carrying out my instructions, this is the way I did mine and it works.

First things first, I cut into the vacuum line coming off the two o'clock position on the dump valve/recirc valve and joined them back together using the T-Piece. I then attached and routed the blue silicone vacuum hose along the clutch vacuum line and secured into position with cable ties and the already mounted hose clamps on the bulkhead/firewall. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE CABLE TIES AS THIS WILL AFFECT THE PRESSURE IN THE LINE.




Once I'd finished routing the vacuum line I cut around 3 inches from the end and placed the inline filter that was provided with the kit, this not only smooths out pulses but it also filters out any nasty contaminants from entering the pressure sender unit.



Once the filter had been fitted I removed the firewall bung just above the turbo, this comes out next to the clutch pedal. You have to remove a tiny bit of the insulation in the cabin but it is already pre-cut for you. I used my Stanley knife to cut an 'X' into the bung big enough to pass the wire and connector through then pushed it back into place in the firewall on the engine side. I then proceeded to feed the sensor wire through the hole and pulled through from within the cabin until I had enough to feed up to where the Gauge Pod sits on the dashboard.




Note in the pictures above if you follow the sensor wire down you will see where the bung is on the firewall. I also at this point mounted the sender unit on the clutch fluid bracket but I may move this at a later date due to hot exhaust gases rising around this point.

Once I was finished mounting and securing everything in the engine bay I popped the plastic surround off just below the steering wheel, I was unsure how to remove it entirely so I only pulled the corner off but this gave me plenty of space to work with.
I also removed the clock and surround from the top of the dashboard, this bit is easy as it is only held in with clips. You might have to use a flat bladed screwdriver to 'persuade' it from it's mount.



When you remove the connector from the back of the clock, take note which wires correspond to what. Its written on the underside of the clock unit so you can't really go wrong but to make things easier I cut the plug off and placed it back into it's socket for a visual aid.

RED - Battery +ve
BLACK - Battery -ve / Earth
ORANGE - Accessory
PURPLE - Lights

These colours are used on my Hawkeye so I presume all new ages but don't quote me. If in doubt, look it up on the net!

Now the connector was removed I stripped the ends of all the wires except the purple 'LIGHTS' wire and used a soldering iron to coat the ends in solder. I decided not to use the Purple wire as I wanted day and night modes on the gauge to be Green, therefore I needed no input from the lights. The instructions that come with your gauges will suggest what wires need to be attached to what.

The instructions suggested the following for Green on both day and night modes;

RED - Battery +ve
BLACK - Battery -ve
White - No Input
Orange - Accessory

After preparing the ends of the clock loom and gauge power harness with solder, I soldered them together using the above chart and used heat shrink to cover the newly made connections. I prefer to use heat shrink as it will never come off unless cut.



Now the power side of things was completed I pulled the sensor wire up through the dash and over the top of the heater ducting, make sure to secure this wire away from the clutch pedal as over time the clutch will chafe through this wire!

I plugged the connectors in to the back of the boost gauge and turned the ignition on to check it was all working, once I was happy I pushed the pod into place and admired my handy work!



Start 'er up!



Note I haven't connected up the oil pressure/temp gauges yet as this is a little harder!

All of this took me roughly 2 hours to complete, I'm a bit of a perfectionist so I secure and route wires properly etc...

You're all clever enough to figure out how to do that bit!

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2006 WRX Wagon

Build Thread

Modified and Serviced by Brent @ Southern Motor Developments in Newhaven, East Sussex.

Last edited by IBenjieI; 29-01-2018 at 07:09 PM.
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