September 2010 - Noticed the fog light on drivers side rattling a little. And on the way to work heard a weird noise to see in my rear view mirror the cold air feed pipe bouncing along the road. D'oh.
So trimmed the fog lamp mount assembly back and re mounted another could feed pipe.
As the car is used pretty much everyday for work etc I noticed when I pulled up the drivers headlight had a lot of excess water/condensation. I thought it was outside so put the car away and went indoors. The following day it was clear there was condensation in the cluster unit itself.
So, head light out. Wiped the excess water still on the inside of the lense and place a heater against it.
Due to the fact I could see no cracks etc to the light I assumed it was the cold air coming in via the CAIK as there is a gap between the bumper and support beam leading direct to the head light. So, found some old plastic from the bumper I cut up and used that.
Once I dried the light inside I picked it up only to find water pissing out of the dipped bulb location area!! So placed the light in side for a few days to air out.
With the light (then the other light)out I changed the bulbs ready for the winter. I previously had the Halfrauds GE made 90% brighter lights and the Blue Vision side lights.
I changed them for a set of OSRAM NIGHT BREAKERS PLUS (H1) and some Phillips Bright White side lights (W5W).
Put them in ready for the the Monthly Surrey meet and away I went.
Which leads me to more money. On starting the car up it sounded a little different on tick over. Thought nothing of it and drove off. However my car was sticking at 3,300 rpm. After a few miles I had to pull over as the car was undriveable with even changing gear early for a higher gear proving to be a nightmare.
Both oil and water temps were getting high. Switched the bugger off and carried on until I got to the meet.
Anyone who was there will vouch for how bad it was hence "The Lawn Mower" comment.
Couldn't drive the car the following day to work as it was still doing it. So popped over to the biggest tit in town Mike's to check a few bits and bobs and swapped out sensors etc.Still no joy.
So got in touch with my little bitch Simon (JGM) to check it wasn't the ECU having a hissy. As ever Simon was a gent and popped over checking my current ECU and another ECU to rule out a faulty soilder on the ECU itself. Sadly Simon diagnosed a faulty Idle Control Valve. Cheers again Simon dear boy.
So, looked on line and the prices of a new ICV shocked me to say the least. I was never going to get a USED one as I didn't want to pay around a oner for the same thing to happen down the line soon. So managed to get one on the cheap for a grand ol price of £280!!
So it arrived the following day. And I keen to get the car up and running again. So went about trying to get the old screws out. What a bitch. The heads on the screw had become very weak due to the hot/cold cycle over the years . Following on from what Simon told me a few days previous I went about tapping the end of the screw driver whilst turning. This didn't work and the heads on the screw started breaking.
So in the end went for a 8mm flat head on the end of the ratchet & The rubber mallet . As last the buggers came out.
I placed a new gasket inside the throttle body and put the new ICV in. Only to come to think that the screws were shagged. I didn't have anthing the sit in there with the same size so cutting a long story short after not being able to get the size screws anywhere popped over to Screfix in West Drayton.
If you ever need to replace the ICV here are the size of the screws/type and so on.
Unplugg the ICV.
8mm flat head
Rubber Mallet
Ratchet
Remember the screw will go from passenger side to drivers side (anti clock wise) in rotation. Gently un screw the old screws (they are almost welded in)
Make sure you buy and use a new gasket. Simple as that to put the new one in.
Place the new ICV in place and use the follwing screws M5 x 20mm Hex Screw head.
I used a washer too to be safe. I did it up by about 1.5 lb/2.0 lb of pressure as it is counter sunk to the throttle body.
Plug the ICV back in and hey presto.
On start up the car was happy straight away. But still a little high on revs once warm. 1,500rpm.
Gave Simon another call and asked him to rub my leg and drop the Revs.
Then I noticed the following day the head light full of condensation again!!! So light back out and this time thought about getting a replacement unit until I got a price for just one £396.00 + VAT!!!!!
So aired the light out again and used the misses hair dryer to warm up the rubber seal and stuck it down again. Also used my old friend Duck Tape. I simply heated the area and cut thin strips the put them in place to the back of the head light unit and re heated and pushed down filling the gaps by using a tea spoon. Yes, a tea spoon.
Lights back in and had no problems since. Yay!!
Had to see Simon again this week to up the idle again. The ICV has eased up and made the idle drop a little lower than it should causing stalling on cold and eratic idle on warm.
Thanks to Simon all sorted now including idle with ac on etc. Sweet.
Will be getting GEO done ASAP as I have noticed the car feeling a little sloppy with the colder temps on the road etc.
Did I go on a little above? lol
October ...................to be contined.
Steve
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