just getting worst!!

[EXEVO3]

ok iv had this misfire problem.. car now has

new coilpacks
new plugs
swapped igniter(2nd hand)
swapped maf ( just for the hell of it)

still heavy misfire on load but now wants to cut out low speed or die but will start straight up...also on tick over a clicking like a relay which makes the car buck around and the rpm raises slightly then drops(when it clicks)

im thinking throttle position sensor???

[bonner]

Have you got a dump valve mate?? My v-limited started same symptoms when I had front mount fitted and dump valve was change without consent by garage and was cutting out at every junction but I think the maf causes the same issues! Anyway I swapped the dumpvalve and sorted my issue,

[EXEVO3]

no mate I don't run a dump valve... all blanked off

[Scott.T]

Bridge j1 in the ecu and run the base map instead of the prova chip.
Could be crap soldering on the chip.

[EXEVO3]

Originally Posted by SilverSurfer

Bridge j1 in the ecu and run the base map instead of the prova chip.
Could be crap soldering on the chip.

ok pal...will try :/

[scooby doo]

Also can check throttle position easy on early wrx requires volt meter and Jgm website shows what pin surpose to be like 5volts etc

[EXEVO3]

iv just bought a new throttle postition sensor and noticed its adjustable?? slotted holes where it screws... what is the correct postition

[andy-m]

http://www.jollygreenmonster.com/help.htm

look at the ecu printout guide, block B95 (for 1992-1996) or block 136 (for 96-98), throttle position sensor.
it gives voltage readings for fully open and fully closed positions. connect a volt meter to the pins at the ecu and with the ignition on but the engine not running, adjust the TPS to give the specified voltage readings in the throttle fully open and fully closed positions

[EXEVO3]

sent me wrong sensor... so a changed ecu to the z4 that came with the car...this has a unknowen chip init...anyway car seems fine down low now, iv got no codes but still on boost it cuts out pops n bangs so there devo unburnt fuel!!

iv also checked compression 150/170/150/170 so engine is good!!

im so pissed off, cant get pass 0.9bar without it playing up and stinks of fuel...

iv checked the pipe work over and over.... I could really do with help now..its pass me!!

[EXEVO3]

well it started playing up at low speed even tick over...i can here a relay clicking and the rpms drop and raise with it and it some times dies but will start straight up...add to this that once you get near 0.9 ish bar it pops bangs cuts in and out.

i put a smoke test on it today pumping white smoke through intake....some very minor air leaks tiny.

[EXEVO3]

also... on checking my compression iv got 170 on the back(to the rear of the car) ports and 150 on the front ports....is this ok normal?? i would of thought they were good figures??

[andy-m]

i think the clicking may be the boost solenoid. on early cars it's a bit noisy. SilverSurfer will know for sure as i'm sure i've read him mention something about noisy boost solenoids before

[EXEVO3]

Its not the boost solenoid, that ticks which is normal, this is a clicking sound like a relay

[EXEVO3]

right the clicking is the main relay or the fuel pump relay...there next to each other so hard to tell which one.

looking at wiring diagram the main relay feeds the fuel pump relay anyway so if this is clicking in and out.. the pump is switching on and off hence the car would run crap on load(boost) and would sometimes die but start straight up..

would this make sense to you clever than me peeps??lol

only thing im still unshore of is it stinks of fuel is bad on fuel now and pops n bangs...but again this could be the main relay cutting my ignition on and off likea bad spark???

[andy-m]

i thought the fuel pump was just supposed to stay on all the time. Silver will know for sure

[Scott.T]

Fuel pump runs all the time but needs a relay as it's high current.
You could temporarily bridge out the clicky relay to see if the problem goes.
You should be able to tell which one is clicking just by touching the case.

If you can open the case it might just need the main contact re flowing / soldering.

[andy-m]

silver, i take it there is nothing that would make the relay cut the supply to the fuel pump then? like fuel cut for whatever reason i.e. over boost?
Am just thinking aloud

[EXEVO3]

well iv changed the main relay that was clicking...and made no difference..iv got the green fuel pump relay turning up 2mo but i doubt that is it...

iv used up all my wil to live with the thing...might have to send car away..

[EXEVO3]

now have code 45.... is that the fuel reg??

[RobEvo5]

As above. perhaps fuel cut from overboost fro some reason. Boost leak ?

[andy-m]

code 45 is Pressure sensor / Pressure exchange solenoid valve according to the JGM site

[EXEVO3]

Originally Posted by andy-m

code 45 is Pressure sensor / Pressure exchange solenoid valve according to the JGM site

so would that be my bcs??

[EXEVO3]

Originally Posted by RobEvo5

As above. perhaps fuel cut from overboost fro some reason. Boost leak ?

car cant be over boosting as I don't get passed 0.9 before it plays up..and it is chipped to 1.1bar and was running that happy... its a strange one:/

[andy-m]

Originally Posted by EXEVO3

so would that be my bcs??

yes, although it may be something else causing the BCS or sensor not to work properly rather than the actual BCS being at fault.
I would take the opinion of someone with more experience than me on that one though

[EXEVO3]

FIXED!! misfire was plugs gap... and the relays running lumpy ect..was a air leak from inlet to idle control valve..

[Mortster]

Nice one! Don't change anything for a while now, just enjoy it