changing spark plugs

[scooby999]

I will be changing my spark plugs over the weekend and really just after some hints and tips on how to do it.I found clubwrx that do a walkthrough so i will follow that.
But what should the gaps be set to(I got PFR6B 3500 and i think the pre set gap is .80,also the cars standard)
Also the thread goes on about resetting the ecu when its done,do i need to do this ?and if so how ?
Also it goes on about
"Just a little trick that has been shown to accelerate the factory ECU's ignition timing learning process.

Background: There is something called "Ignition Advance Multiplier". It represents, by some complicated algorithm, the average learned positive knock correction applied to the ignition maps. It's represented in 1/8th degrees increments. 1 being the lowest and 16 being the highest (1/8 to 2 degrees in absolute terms).

The "happier" (knock free) the car is, the higher the number will be. Conversely, the lower it is, the more knock prone it is. This number, after ECU reset ore ECU swap defaults to 8 and usually creeps up to 16 (if well mapped) through normal driving. Depending on driving characteristics, this can happen within a few hours or a few weeks. Well, here's a way to make it happen in about 5 seconds ....

First: With the car fully warmed up, reset the ECU. This can be done by killing power the ECU or by simply pulling off the neg. battery terminal and pressing the brake pedal for a couple of seconds.

Second: Drive to a nice open road without traffic. Don't go on boost until you get there. Put the car into gear (3rd gear works the best) bring the revs up to 2600rpm. Push the go pedal down slightly so boost stays right around 2-4psi. You will need to MAINTAIN 2500rpm and 2-5psi for approx 5 seconds. You can do this by left-foot braking gently as to prevent acceleration. During these few seconds, the advance multiplier (which you can't see so you'll have to trust me) will go from 8, to 12 and then to 16. Works like a charm. And on our reflashed ECU, is worth an immediate 10-20 horsepower

In an attempt to save a lot of dyno time between reflashes (when the advance multiplier resets itself), I do this little trick after every reflash. In a typical dyno session, it's not unusual to reflash the same car up to 5 times. On the dyno, all I need to do is tell the dyno to hold revs to 2600rpm. Then I just lay on the throttle until I see a few psi of boost... Bingo!

Warning: This little trick artificially speeds up the learning process. This is only a good thing if the re-mapped ECU is mapped properly. If there are trouble-spots where knock is present, this trick will make it even more present. So be careful! "

do i have to do this or will the car just sort itself out?

I never thought just changing the spark plugs was so involed or maybe I am just reading too much !!!!!!
Thanks Jason

PS I am also changing the fuel filter aswell,I take it you just take the pipes off the old one and connect up the new one????

[scooby999]

bump for today

[midlife2]

Hi sounds a load of ******** to me , changing the plugs is the same as any other car, take the old ones out and put the new ones in .

[andy-m]

well, you have to take the battery out to change the plugs, and i think that does mean the ECU resets but i dont wory about all that you posted. yes i do drive gently for a bit right after cuz i dont like hitting the turbo till its warmed up but after that, i just drive normal.

and yes, I think you do just disconnect the pipes when your changingeth fuel filter (At least thats what i did n everything worked fine after)