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Old 09-11-2013, 04:22 PM
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had car on the rollers today...the guy picked up det between 4500rpm and 6000rpm....and the car was running rich 9s 10s and it would hold 1bar of boost when it should be 1.1bar...

the 1st pic is power at the fly wheel...the 2nd pic is power at the wheels,boost.fuel air,

shes not a well puppy...
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File Type: jpg At the flywheel.jpg (93.9 KB, 31 views)
File Type: jpg At the wheels fuel and air.jpg (93.5 KB, 30 views)
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Old 09-11-2013, 05:27 PM
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Down around 30-45bhp maff mate if you have oneswap it over. Wouldn't be boosting around till sorted.
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Old 09-11-2013, 05:29 PM
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That AFR just looks wrong.
No way should that be running 14AFR above 4,000rpm.
The ECU switches from lambda fuel control to MAF fuel control above 3,000rpm or when you start to achieve positive boost. Whichever occurs first.

In your case you are running 14.5AFR at 4100rpm and 12psi of boost, so very lean for those conditions. It should be around 12.5AFR max (I'll dig out the map from my old archive HDrive to confirm what it should be).

Boost also comes in quite late, so not sure if the operator bought the rpm up to 4,000 before flooring it, or had wide open throttle from low rpm in 3rd or 4th.

The fuelling then flatlines to 10 which I have never seen before in such a straight and level way. It's almost as if the lambda meter has hit it's limit.

The only movement is between 5100 and 5500. On the scoob around 4800 to 5500 is the usual detonation hot spot......

The MAF is critical to good running. If the MAF is metering the air wrong, then the calculated load (which is a calculation based on MAP and MAF) will be wrong.
The calculated load is used as one of the axis on the 16x16 fuel and timing maps. Therefore if your calculated load is incorrect the cells selected for a specifc rpm will be incorrect and therefore the timing/fuelling will be incorrect.

Is your boost still holding up after the run out to the rollers and back ?
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Old 09-11-2013, 05:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverSurfer View Post
That AFR just looks wrong.
No way should that be running 14AFR above 4,000rpm.
The ECU switches from lambda fuel control to MAF fuel control above 3,000rpm or when you start to achieve positive boost. Whichever occurs first.

In your case you are running 14.5AFR at 4100rpm and 12psi of boost, so very lean for those conditions. It should be around 12.5AFR max (I'll dig out the map from my old archive HDrive to confirm what it should be).

Boost also comes in quite late, so not sure if the operator bought the rpm up to 4,000 before flooring it, or had wide open throttle from low rpm in 3rd or 4th.

The fuelling then flatlines to 10 which I have never seen before in such a straight and level way. It's almost as if the lambda meter has hit it's limit.

The only movement is between 5100 and 5500. On the scoob around 4800 to 5500 is the usual detonation hot spot......

The MAF is critical to good running. If the MAF is metering the air wrong, then the calculated load (which is a calculation based on MAP and MAF) will be wrong.
The calculated load is used as one of the axis on the 16x16 fuel and timing maps. Therefore if your calculated load is incorrect the cells selected for a specifc rpm will be incorrect and therefore the timing/fuelling will be incorrect.

Is your boost still holding up after the run out to the rollers and back ?
car holds 1 bar on my gauge and on there chart. Car seems to run fine now other than the fact im not geting 1.1bar...

really odd that changing actuator gave me boost but not full boost....im really concerned about the DET..but as soon as i see the fuel air mix i thought i need you to see it...

so we think MAF could create my boost det and fuel problems...??
i understand nuts n bolts but this engine fuel map stuff im lost!!
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Old 09-11-2013, 05:57 PM
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good to meet ya today fella... shame the result wasn't exactly what you wanted
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Old 09-11-2013, 06:03 PM
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good to meet ya today fella... shame the result wasn't exactly what you wanted
half expected it mate...as the to chaps above will tell you iv had afew dramas lol.... i did the dyno to see if it would shed any light on the problems..
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Old 09-11-2013, 07:00 PM
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iv a guy loacl 2me scoob breakers... his got a maf for me...what else could i need?? are there any sensors i.e knock sensor?? im off 2mo and monday and want to sort this its pi**ing me off lol
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Old 09-11-2013, 07:01 PM
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We're did you guys go for these runs.
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Old 10-11-2013, 10:36 AM
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hayesdynotec erith....they mostly do evos
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Old 10-11-2013, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by EXEVO3 View Post
iv a guy loacl 2me scoob breakers... his got a maf for me...what else could i need?? are there any sensors i.e knock sensor?? im off 2mo and monday and want to sort this its pi**ing me off lol
Maf just screws in place of the od one
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Old 10-11-2013, 04:50 PM
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right....fitted a new maf....reset ecu....took car for a long driveand was seeing 1.1bar on my guage...2mins from home...0.5 again only it is reving past 4000rpm.... so not shore this is limp or not...

so not shore now
actuator changed.
maf changed
pill is 2mm

could it be 3 port???

im at a loss....only thing left is to try another ecu.. maybe this polar ecu has a problem and thats why it was sold....
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Old 10-11-2013, 04:59 PM
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Won't be 3.port. Your graph shows the fueling. Fit your z4 in try it see how it runs with that. Here's my number 07827972810. And can go threw other things with you.
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Old 10-11-2013, 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by scooby doo View Post
Won't be 3.port. Your graph shows the fueling. Fit your z4 in try it see how it runs with that. Here's my number 07827972810. And can go threw other things with you.
thank you mate...ill save your number...im off work 2mo so ill swop ecu and see... iv another 2 ecus z4 which has i think fujitsu chip and a prova..

thanks again for your help...
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Old 10-11-2013, 06:36 PM
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had the same thing with mine. it's boost being cut to 0.5 bar to stop detonation.
there's a few simple things that can cause it. not using the right RON rated fuel, Intercooler blocked or undertray missing so it doesn't get enough airflow, overfilling the engine with oil can also do it.
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Old 10-11-2013, 08:18 PM
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Could be the ECU, like you say there may of been a reason for it being for sale.
Could be worth running a soldering iron over the chip socket, as sometimes these are not fitted well. Although I would of expected it to run a lot worse if that was the case.

Try another BCS if you can get one as sometimes these pack up a they warm up.
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Old 10-11-2013, 09:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andy-m View Post
had the same thing with mine. it's boost being cut to 0.5 bar to stop detonation.
there's a few simple things that can cause it. not using the right RON rated fuel, Intercooler blocked or undertray missing so it doesn't get enough airflow, overfilling the engine with oil can also do it.
i run it on shell V power
the undertray is missing as it fauled the strut brace
Oil level is spot on..
i cant see tmic being blocked as the car would run ruff?? and its smooth as u like other then the boost...iv never had engine warning light come up either...

im going to try another ecu. i think the boost drop is connected to the det bad fueling... another ecu will soon tell...

one thing is clear...the car ran fine till i found the pill was to small..since iv drilled it to 2mm and allowed it to boost as it should the car has spat its dummy out.....
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Old 10-11-2013, 10:42 PM
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one thing is clear...the car ran fine till i found the pill was to small..since iv drilled it to 2mm and allowed it to boost as it should the car has spat its dummy out.....
You said it was only running 0.7bar...that's what kicked the whole investigation off.
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Old 10-11-2013, 11:05 PM
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it ran fine because it wasn't boosting fully as above. now that you are boosting proper, it generates more heat than it did before and then the ecu is limiting the boost to prevent detonation.

the v1/2 slanty coolers are crap (I have the same) and if the undertray is missing, then it wont get the airflow through the core that it should do so your intake temp goes up after a bit of normal boosting, then the ecu cuts the boost to protect the engine.
I could be wrong, but it's no big deal to lose the brace and pop the undertray back on to see. even if that just means you get further down the road before the boost gets cut again, it's an indication of what could be wrong
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Old 10-11-2013, 11:07 PM
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You said it was only running 0.7bar...that's what kicked the whole investigation off.
yes hole time iv had car i didnt know what boost i was running as i didnt have a gauge(didnt feel like 1.1bar)...when i fitted gauge it was reading 0.7....thats what started me looking for the problem...had the wrong pill init..sorted that...got boost and ever since...well i dont know lol iv had a actuator die,limp mode,boost that wont boost where it should ,a fuel graph from hell,a new maf,1.1bar again and then limp mode lol.....hell...
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Old 10-11-2013, 11:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andy-m View Post
it ran fine because it wasn't boosting fully as above. now that you are boosting proper, it generates more heat than it did before and then the ecu is limiting the boost to prevent detonation.

the v1/2 slanty coolers are crap (I have the same) and if the undertray is missing, then it wont get the airflow through the core that it should do so your intake temp goes up after a bit of normal boosting, then the ecu cuts the boost to protect the engine.
I could be wrong, but it's no big deal to lose the brace and pop the undertray back on to see. even if that just means you get further down the road before the boost gets cut again, it's an indication of what could be wrong
yeah i see what your saying...with the cold air we have at the mo id be shocked if these tmics are that bad...worth a try though
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Old 11-11-2013, 11:45 AM
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well iv changed ecu...was going to put the Z4 in but it wouldnt start and when it did it died 5mins later...this was the ecu in the car when i bought it so im not shore whats happened there.

so iv put the prova in and the car is running fine so far..

ill post up pics of the polar and the Z4 later..
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Old 11-11-2013, 07:54 PM
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ok theses are pics of the polar ecu and of the Z4 ecu that the car was running when i bought it...like i said for some reason the Z4 wont run now...

both these chips unplug.... is it worth remapping 1 of these chips??

at the mo iv fitted the prova and car seems to ok...
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSC00016.jpg (135.4 KB, 14 views)
File Type: jpg DSC00018.jpg (133.2 KB, 12 views)
File Type: jpg DSC00014.jpg (135.3 KB, 10 views)
File Type: jpg DSC00020.jpg (129.9 KB, 9 views)
File Type: jpg ecu (2).jpg (93.4 KB, 9 views)
File Type: jpg ecu (3).jpg (92.2 KB, 8 views)
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Old 12-11-2013, 07:50 AM
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Silver will know for sure, but I think the chips can only be written to once.
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Old 13-11-2013, 09:15 AM
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Well since changing the ecu the car has been fine holding boost nd no limp modes... but I can here from cold the bcs clicking which I never heard before and also the idel seems to waver alittle only when cold...
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Old 13-11-2013, 09:55 AM
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BCS does that with earlier ECU's I think. does it on mine.
first time I heard it, I thought it was valve gaps and had to get closer to identify it as BCS. done over 12K miles like that & changed the BCS to be sure and engine is still fine so don't worry about it.
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Old 13-11-2013, 10:04 AM
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Clicking bcs is due to the bcs control map being poorly set up for the code its running.
If you touch the throttle at idle it will stop.

If the polar chip can be removed from the chip socket. Then plug that in the ecu that works.
Let me know again what map its currently running (prova) as I may have a copy to take a look at.
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Old 13-11-2013, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverSurfer View Post
Clicking bcs is due to the bcs control map being poorly set up for the code its running.
If you touch the throttle at idle it will stop.

If the polar chip can be removed from the chip socket. Then plug that in the ecu that works.
Let me know again what map its currently running (prova) as I may have a copy to take a look at.
the prova is init at this moment...if you take alook at the pics of the prova chip...the label I don't think is what prova would of stuck on?? has a code penned onit..

the polar chip does come out as does the chip that's in the Z4 pics of all 3 are on here..
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Old 13-11-2013, 11:54 AM
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Shame the polar wont fit in the prova.
The solder joints on the prova direct fitting I.e not socketed is usually pretty poor.
I have some prova maps on file so I will report back the fuel and ignition advance compared to the polar.
I am sat in a plane waiting to take of for Madrid so wont ne able to check until Friday.
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Old 13-11-2013, 01:42 PM
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Quote:
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Shame the polar wont fit in the prova.
The solder joints on the prova direct fitting I.e not socketed is usually pretty poor.
I have some prova maps on file so I will report back the fuel and ignition advance compared to the polar.
I am sat in a plane waiting to take of for Madrid so wont ne able to check until Friday.
oh lucky you!!! well enjoy your hols pal...
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Old 13-11-2013, 03:23 PM
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Hol's.....lol if only.
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Old 13-11-2013, 04:01 PM
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Hol's.....lol if only.
rr busmans holiday then lol
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