Oil pan replacement?

[majorscooby]

I'm looking to change and replace my oil sump over the next few weeks as its looking a little worse for wear from the good old wet roads and hot header exhaust combo causing it to rust a little. Plus the oil is a year old so it's change time whilst Im under the car.


Has anybody else changed one whilst the engine is in place in the bay? Is it fairly straight forward?


I know there's a few bolts at the back of the sump that are a squeeze to get to, is there much to remove to get to these?


Any advice or tips would be greatfully received before I attempt it.

[SpecB]

If you can stretch to it, get yourself a baffle plate while its out, I think you have to loosen the engine mounts and move the engine up slightly to clear the subframe.

[majorscooby]

Originally Posted by BlueBugEye

If you can stretch to it, get yourself a baffle plate while its out, I think you have to loosen the engine mounts and move the engine up slightly to clear the subframe.

I have read somewhere about lifting the engine slightly, shouldnt be to tricky with a hoist. What's the idea of a baffle plate exactly nick?

[C. J.]

Stops surge

[majorscooby]

Ok quick update, decided to make a start on the grotty sump replacement tonight after work and what a tricky Sod it is. Not looking to healthy eh, luckily this is the worst rusted part under the car and the rest will be shot back and powder coated over this year.



I've taken out the strut brace, intercooler, pitch stop mount, top radiator connections to slam panel and unbolted the lower engine mounts.



After jacking up the engine about 2 inches or so with a nice piece of wood spanning the old sump I've managed to get out the 4 worst and most awkward bolts on the job.
A 10mm socket and a small knuckle joint did the job but it was fiddley!!. Not looking forward to getting the new ones back in.





Decided then for some wiered reason whilst sipping a cuppa to tap the old sump in various places to see how thin it was, it didn't take much to make it start bleeding!


Thought it would then be a good idea to quickly drain out the old oil through the correct exit hole.





Will update this little job as I go on, need to now order new bolts and a tube of grey engine sealer this week.

[Scott.T]

Good job Rich, but a very sad looking sump.
I assume you have no under-tray as mine is still shiny black under the tray.

[majorscooby]

No mate no tray but ill source one after the job. I have new sump from JPP and its mint so really looking forward to getting it on and new oil in the car.

The old oil was fairly clean as I only covered 4k last year.

[Steve_PPP]

Blimey, that sump is in a state. Nice one for doing the job yourself, have you got a pit under the car to work in?

[bonner]

Nice n crisp!! if you get stuck for a tray type r russ might let his go having recently taken off, good luck with fitting new sump!

[majorscooby]

Originally Posted by Steve_PPP

Blimey, that sump is in a state. Nice one for doing the job yourself, have you got a pit under the car to work in?

Cheers guys. bit of a tricky little job but its gotta be done, plus I enjoy having a go at doing things myself.
Dreaded rust! but I'm slowly getting there with the old girl. Have been looking into shot blasting and powder coating at home but for what I need doing and with a few parts being totally replaced I might aswell let a professional company do it.


Yes Steve I have a pit about 5ft deep and once the car is jacked up its very easy to do bits and pieces.

[Krissyb]

Your doing a sterling job Rich , top man. Are you about this weekend

[majorscooby]

Yeah I'm about, trying to get the new pan back on once bolts and sealer arrive and paint the baby's room. Lol

[majorscooby]

Managed in between celebrating my boys birthday today the pain In the **** job of unsticking the sump , the grey 3 bond sealer really makes it tough to remove. The bolts were a breeze.


Old and new sumps.



Shiny internals.





Waiting for new sealant and bolts to arrive now. Really is nice working on the car with a bit of warm weather

[Hongkongfooi]

Difference between old and new is like night and day

[BIG"E"]

You might as well go for a baffled sump seeing as it all exposed..

[Scooby_Greg]

It's going to be very tidy by the time you've finished

[majorscooby]

Originally Posted by BIG"E"

You might as well go for a baffled sump seeing as it all exposed..

Mmmm I have been thinking about it Ian since Nick mentioned it to me but I don't do hardly any track time or really push the old on a good day so I'm wondering if its really worth the forking out of £175??

Originally Posted by Scooby_Greg

It's going to be very tidy by the time you've finished

Cheers Greg, I do wonder at times why didn't I just buy a clean bug or a blob? But then I do enjoy tinkering with the old girl and eventually every car will start to rust! Lol

[majorscooby]

Got the bits I needed through today so cracked on while the wife was out and I had some spare time. Group n kit from import car parts. The most important part of this kit was the nice new shiny bolts, the back four were in a bit of state and were not really any good for re use.



Must say what a mare of a job it was!!!
Took my time and tried not to use to much sealant so as not to get in a mess but the movement of the gasket whilst re fitting the bolts put and end to that idea.
Basically I ended up launching the gasket ( literally ), cleaned up everything agian and fitted the sump OE style as from the factory with just a nice layer of three bond.
I've kept the gasket as a just in case as its cleaned up ok but fingers crossed its not going to leak anywhere, time will tell.
New Oil filter filled with fresh oil and screwed on but I'm leaving the sump to seal properly over night before I fill and take it for run to get it warmed up.



I think the shiny sump could be the start of something and I would like it all underneath to be nice and new but I don't want it to be come a car I worry about too much and therefor doesn't get driven.
Looking forward to tomo morns start up.

[Hongkongfooi]

i assume the warmth of the engine helps it seal? looks good though

[majorscooby]

Originally Posted by Hongkongfooi

i assume the warmth of the engine helps it seal? looks good though

Cheers tim, Ive read that it cures at average room temp and requires a good few hours and yes the warmth would probably help, but I'm not in any rush.

[asperformance]

you need to ensure there is no oil around when applting the sealant as although it forms a liquid tight seal opnce cures, before then the oil actually attacks and contaminates it stopping it curing...............

we normally allow 8-12 hrs before refilling with oil

[majorscooby]

Originally Posted by asperformance

you need to ensure there is no oil around when applting the sealant as although it forms a liquid tight seal opnce cures, before then the oil actually attacks and contaminates it stopping it curing...............

we normally allow 8-12 hrs before refilling with oil

I made sure both surfaces where dry and spotless before I put the sealant on. Both had a nice wipe over with some brake cleaner and a lint free cloth to remove any residue and oil. Left over night before I filled back up. Fingers crossed eh.

[BIG"E"]

Originally Posted by majorscooby

I made sure both surfaces where dry and spotless before I put the sealant on. Both had a nice wipe over with some brake cleaner and a lint free cloth to remove any residue and oil. Left over night before I filled back up. Fingers crossed eh.

Good luck..and well done

[majorscooby]

Thanks Ian, worst case scenario is that it weeps from the horrid tricky area at the back and I have to take it off again to re-do. Not a mega issue just a pain in bum.

[majorscooby]

Well, a good twenty or so miles done on a run out today and so far all is good and dry under there. Car does sound better with fresh oil in even if the old had only done 4k.

[Scott.T]

Nice work Rich, you can come and fit me a baffled one now

[majorscooby]

Originally Posted by SilverSurfer

Nice work Rich, you can come and fit me a baffled one now

Ill gladly come over and give you a hand when you come to fit one, tricky little job though so someone who has fitted one before will help with the glitchy parts.

Hardest part for me was getting the new pan back in due to the dipstick bracket that is welded on the side of the pan catching on the headers (old original hacked off as I couldn't pull the dipstick tube free) and the lack of avaliable movement because of the oil pick up pipe in the centre which catches on the inside returns.


Another issue was getting the dipstick pipe back down through the tight darkness and inserted into the pan correctly. Those dipstick tubes do not give nor bend!

[Krissyb]

What a cracking job mate

[majorscooby]

Originally Posted by Krissyb

What a cracking job mate

Cheers fella, just need to sort the other crusty bits and brackets at the back now with the powder coaters. Lateral arms though are just going to be swapped straight out.

Whilst the pan was curing and I had a few hours on my hands I had the chance to swap over every 10 & 12mm grotty bolt in the engine bay for stainless hex head bolts which look a lot better and blingy.

[Granby]

Great job Rich, that pan looked in a right state, all it needed was a big'ish stone to hit it and you might of lost all your oil

[majorscooby]

Originally Posted by Granby

Great job Rich, that pan looked in a right state, all it needed was a big'ish stone to hit it and you might of lost all your oil

I know Ian not good at all.

Glad its sorted now, should keep the old girl going for a few more years.

[Steve_PPP]

Looks a job well done mate, another task to tick off the list

[majorscooby]

Originally Posted by Steve_PPP

Looks a job well done mate, another task to tick off the list

Thanks Steve, the little man is getting interested aswell and came out with his torch bless him.


Just did a top up with the silver in front arches like Scott's also today.

[Scooby_Greg]

Looks good Rich

[SamSTI]

Excellent stuff Rich!!