to go simtek or not???

[sumo-scooby]

Got a 1999 uk turbo 2000, needs a remap but am interested in a simtek, but are they worth the money?

Yes, very much so.

Lots of members on here have Simtek and you won't find many unhappy punters among them.

The only niggle with it is cold starts.

Apart from that, with Simon (Jolly Green Monster) our resident mapper at the sharp end of things, it's a win win!

[sumo-scooby]

They main point that i like is that you can have two maps one for general pottering around then the other for full on power, only downside is the price

[sumo-scooby]

Need to get rid of my part throttle issue that its pulsing ( can see on my aem lambda kit that its pulsing betreen 13 to 16.1 on the air/fuel ratio) upto 0.2 bar of boost the richens to 10.5 afr

[Hongkongfooi]

Originally Posted by worzel

Yes, very much so.

Lots of members on here have Simtek and you won't find many unhappy punters among them.

The only niggle with it is cold starts.

Apart from that, with Simon (Jolly Green Monster) our resident mapper at the sharp end of things, it's a win win!

Agreed, hopefully Simon will sort my cold running issues

[DukeBoy]

Syvecs

[midlife2]

simtek

[chrisp]

syvecs is a fair bit dearer than simtek though Dukeboy, good bit of kit and been happy with mine so far. I'd say that they are good ecu's (simtek syvecs) but are they really needed for your build? You'll have the advantage of not needing to replace maf's ever again and the 2 maps but in my opinion ecutek is fine for mildly modded motors. Others may not agree though

[Anger]

Mafs are the week link on later classics tuned above 340bhp ish... I could have payes for a Simtek in less than a year with how many mafs played up

[SpecB]

I bit the bullet and went straight for Syvecs - Simtek is good and gets good reviews all I can say is I'm more than happy with the Syvecs and I will use the extra functionality as I get the car more sorted e.g. Launch control, DCCD control and data logging.

Simtek iirc is almost the same cost as Syvecs once you add in A/L and Launch control as they are cost options I think.

Originally Posted by Anger

Mafs are the week link on later classics tuned above 340bhp ish... I could have payes for a Simtek in less than a year with how many mafs played up

Very true

[Scott.T]

Originally Posted by sumo-scooby

Need to get rid of my part throttle issue that its pulsing ( can see on my aem lambda kit that its pulsing betreen 13 to 16.1 on the air/fuel ratio) upto 0.2 bar of boost the richens to 10.5 afr

Sorry but I wish people would stop all this 2 maps, one for pottering/fuel economy and one for power.

Thats what your foot's for, use it lighlty for potterings and heavily for power, it's much cheaper.

Both power and potter maps will have the same fuelling settings during cruise and idle so will make no difference to economy. The difference will only be seen when you nail if one is set to 0.9bar the other 1.5bar...but if you do that your not pottering.

The 2 maps situation is best used for different fuels i.e one for 99RON and one for 95RON or 99RON and Meth etc.....

Simtek is a good setup but IMHO the rest of the car has to have some serious modifications to warrent the change. The standard ECU or an Apexi PFC (4-Boost settings) is a much cheaper option until the mods get more serious.

[Sumo Dan]

Originally Posted by SilverSurfer

Sorry but I wish people would stop all this 2 maps, one for pottering/fuel economy and one for power.

Thats what your foot's for, use it lighlty for potterings and heavily for power, it's much cheaper.

Both power and potter maps will have the same fuelling settings during cruise and idle so will make no difference to economy. The difference will only be seen when you nail if one is set to 0.9bar the other 1.5bar...but if you do that your not pottering.

The 2 maps situation is best used for different fuels i.e one for 99RON and one for 95RON or 99RON and Meth etc.....

Simtek is a good setup but IMHO the rest of the car has to have some serious modifications to warrent the change. The standard ECU or an Apexi PFC (4-Boost settings) is a much cheaper option until the mods get more serious.

I like this comment, always makes me laugh when people want good economy on a decent spec Impreza or Any Jap car...... Just Map it and enjoy it - Simples, That's what its all about at the end of the day.

Drive off boost is a win for long trips

[Skullfudge]

Syvecs by a mile.

Motec 800 was known as the best but Syvecs is better, half the price and everything is activated opposed to paying for activations with Motec.

[Anger]

My Syvecs has probaly saved my engine.... But it was interesting when it shut everything off on the A2

[C. J.]

another for syvecs

[sumo-scooby]

Will eventually be running 1.4-1.6 bar but dont want to let the otherhalf use it with that sort of power

[C. J.]

try 2.1 bar

[kartingsteve]

Originally Posted by sumo-scooby

Will eventually be running 1.4-1.6 bar but dont want to let the otherhalf use it with that sort of power

Its the right foot that makes it go fast .

[Skullfudge]

Originally Posted by kartingsteve

Its the right foot that makes it go fast .

Very true

I'm running 2.2Br with 541 Bhp and pulled over in a lay by and told the wife to have a go.
After 20 minutes she agreed.

Put it in 1st gear & stall, & again, & again, & again then were off.
Into 2nd at 2000 rpm, into 3rd at 2000 rpm then into 4th. Reached 3800 rpm, in came the power and she totally 5hit herself. Didn't like it one bit and parked up bless her

[Skullfudge]

Originally Posted by Anger

My Syvecs has probaly saved my engine.... But it was interesting when it shut everything off on the A2

Your correct there matey. Syvecs detected something not right & shut it down.
I have Syvecs for P2.

[Lucky]

Originally Posted by Skullfudge

Very true

I'm running 2.2Br with 541 Bhp and pulled over in a lay by and told the wife to have a go.
After 20 minutes she agreed.

Put it in 1st gear & stall, & again, & again, & again then were off.
Into 2nd at 2000 rpm, into 3rd at 2000 rpm then into 4th. Reached 3800 rpm, in came the power and she totally 5hit herself. Didn't like it one bit and parked up bless her

[Hongkongfooi]

Originally Posted by Skullfudge

Very true

I'm running 2.2Br with 541 Bhp and pulled over in a lay by and told the wife to have a go.
After 20 minutes she agreed.

Put it in 1st gear & stall, & again, & again, & again then were off.
Into 2nd at 2000 rpm, into 3rd at 2000 rpm then into 4th. Reached 3800 rpm, in came the power and she totally 5hit herself. Didn't like it one bit and parked up bless her

[Granby]

Had Simtek on my wagon and didn't have any problems with cold start, would of been nice to have knock control though (have they sorted this yet?), might of saved my engine

[sumo-scooby]

Would i be better off with just getting an ecutek remap and an electronic boost controller or go for simtek

[C. J.]

http://www.syvecs.co.uk/

[Scott.T]

Originally Posted by sumo-scooby

Would i be better off with just getting an ecutek remap and an electronic boost controller or go for simtek

ecutek it for now and don't bother with the boost controller as OE boot control is good with anecutek map.

On the standard TD04 turbo you can only run 1.2bar midrange 1bar at the top end.You need a much more serious turbo, injectors, gearbox and bottomend to run 1.6bar.

Re "Need to get rid of my part throttle issue that its pulsing ( can see on my aem lambda kit that its pulsing betreen 13 to 16.1 on the air/fuel ratio) upto 0.2 bar of boost the richens to 10.5 afr "

That sounds normal the 13 to 16.1 is the ECU stoich control for emission balancing the AFR around 14.7. When you go above 0.2bar the ECU switches from Lambda control for fuelling (which will oscilate to achieve the most efficient burn) to MAF Control which richens as boost/revs increase.

A new lambda may smooth it out, but a trick with the classic scoob, if it annoys you, is to unplug the Lambda. This will run smoother but slightly richer at idle/cruise. It won't flash the check engine light unless you do an ECU test. Just plug it back in for MOT.

If it only happens when cold then don't worry too much as the lambda feedback is poor when the probe is cold hence the hesitation. This should improve when warm. It could be that the heater element within the lambda probe has failed.

[sumo-scooby]

Ok cool thanks will try disconnecting the lambda sensor and see what happens, ive got a solid forged engine that built myself using a v3 closed deck block, cosworth gaskets, bearings andcambelt with cp pistons and manley h beam rods and ported heads so should hopefully be able to handle some high boost, when first got the car it was running 1.24 bar threw a bleed valve but then it ceized up on dyno at work then built up the new engine and connected up std boost controll system

[jura11]

As above Syvecs is way forward


My Syvecs will be fitted in summer with 6speed,i want now,but on our current gearbox is little bit complicated.


Jura

[C. J.]

Originally Posted by SilverSurfer

ecutek it for now and don't bother with the boost controller as OE boot control is good with anecutek map.

On the standard TD04 turbo you can only run 1.2bar midrange 1bar at the top end.You need a much more serious turbo, injectors, gearbox and bottomend to run 1.6bar.

Re "Need to get rid of my part throttle issue that its pulsing ( can see on my aem lambda kit that its pulsing betreen 13 to 16.1 on the air/fuel ratio) upto 0.2 bar of boost the richens to 10.5 afr "

That sounds normal the 13 to 16.1 is the ECU stoich control for emission balancing the AFR around 14.7. When you go above 0.2bar the ECU switches from Lambda control for fuelling (which will oscilate to achieve the most efficient burn) to MAF Control which richens as boost/revs increase.

A new lambda may smooth it out, but a trick with the classic scoob, if it annoys you, is to unplug the Lambda. This will run smoother but slightly richer at idle/cruise. It won't flash the check engine light unless you do an ECU test. Just plug it back in for MOT.

If it only happens when cold then don't worry too much as the lambda feedback is poor when the probe is cold hence the hesitation. This should improve when warm. It could be that the heater element within the lambda probe has failed.

buy a syvecs and then there is no need for the lamba sensor or the crap maf sensor save your money and do it once