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  #1  
Old 21-11-2013, 04:16 PM
uk_99 uk_99 is offline
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Default creak/grind when turning left

i am getting a slight grind noise/creaking when turning left when moving , dosent happen when i am sat still
do you think it will be wheel bearing on its way out?
i cannot feel any movement in the wheel

thanks for any advice
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  #2  
Old 21-11-2013, 05:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uk_99 View Post
i am getting a slight grind noise/creaking when turning left when moving , dosent happen when i am sat still
do you think it will be wheel bearing on its way out?
i cannot feel any movement in the wheel

thanks for any advice

to SES..

It would be good if you could introduce yourself in the

"New Members (first thread here please)" section. on the home page.
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  #3  
Old 21-11-2013, 07:49 PM
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scotty scotty is offline
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Had the same problem hub flange and wheel bearing was knackered got it replaced .
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  #4  
Old 21-11-2013, 08:29 PM
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kartingsteve kartingsteve is offline
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Sounds like a wheel bearing .
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  #5  
Old 24-11-2013, 07:24 PM
uk_99 uk_99 is offline
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well i checked yesterday and the wheel bearing is shot

how much do you think i would be looking at to get a garage to replace it ?
or is it straight forward to diy ?
thanks
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  #6  
Old 25-11-2013, 08:00 AM
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you need a garage with a press to push the old bearing out and the new one in so it's not quite DIY.
If you can get the hub off yourself and take it to a garage for them to do that bit for you, then it's not a complicated job for you to do the rest.

the only hard bit for you will be the bottom ball joint. unless it's fairly new, it will try to spin when you undo the nut.
To avoid the same problem with the trackrod end, don't use the joint splitter until you got the nut off.
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  #7  
Old 25-11-2013, 08:52 AM
scoobypat scoobypat is offline
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Had to do mine yesterday, found it easier to change hole hub. Now the old hub's off I can get it refurbished.
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  #8  
Old 27-11-2013, 03:54 PM
uk_99 uk_99 is offline
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thanks for the advise/info
i will be trying to change just the bearing this saturday
does anyone know if all the impreza have the same bearing ? got quoted £70 from unipart but can get one alot cheaper on ebay but they have the same bearing listed for all impreza
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  #9  
Old 27-11-2013, 07:21 PM
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Try eurocarparts mate you can get a wheel bearing kit for £50 or under for a classic
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  #10  
Old 28-11-2013, 04:16 PM
uk_99 uk_99 is offline
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thanks will try them
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  #11  
Old 28-11-2013, 09:40 PM
drakesnow drakesnow is offline
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Otherwise talk to import car parts. Great for general OE subaru parts , good guys and know their stuff
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  #12  
Old 30-11-2013, 05:52 PM
uk_99 uk_99 is offline
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wel managed to get the wheel bearing changed today got a bearing for £60 with my boss's discount at unipart
not the easiest job i have ever done
firstly the lower caliper bolt didnt feel very nice when removing and ended up taking some of the caliper with it so needed to be retapped etc but next time i need to remove the calipers i will get helicoils ready
then removing the bearing casing from main hub without a press is no easy task luckily my boss has alsorts (including a diablo/2 porsches one turbo and one twin motorbike engine which is his work in process )in his workshop and managed to use a 46mm socket to drive it out with a sledge hammer as lump hammer would not touch it lol
anyway job done and no more wobbly wheel /creak and grind

next on my list is pads all round which should be a nice and easy job
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Old 01-12-2013, 09:17 AM
blueygod blueygod is offline
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silly thing mine did that the other week, it turned out that my anti roll bar drop link had a crack in it, and I couldn't see it till I took it off
only happened when I turned
my not help then again it may do good luck tho
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  #14  
Old 01-12-2013, 11:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uk_99 View Post

next on my list is pads all round which should be a nice and easy job
if your calliper bolt was in that bad a condition, I would assume the worst and get new calliper seals and pistons and the 2 sliding guide bolt things. Give the calipers a complete overhaul.
I didn't the first time I did my pads which resulted in some squeaking after a week and a disc warping (Which was brand new) due to either the sliding guide or a piston binding.

if you have any problems getting parts, Bigred on ebay will have the pistons. I would recommend Import Car Parts for the seal kits and the piston slider bolts.

Bigred even has the pistons for the GC8 single pot rears (Although lists them as non-turbo) which are a bugger to find.
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  #15  
Old 02-12-2013, 06:21 PM
uk_99 uk_99 is offline
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do you know how much it cost in parts to refurb
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  #16  
Old 03-12-2013, 07:43 AM
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my 2 pot fronts were something like £25 for the seals for both fronts, the sliding bolts were £25 per calliper and the pistons were something like £20 each so my 2-pot front axle was £155 plus pads and discs.

when you consider that import car parts sell reconditioned 2-pot front callipers for £100 each, I saved myself £50 on the front axle and the rear single pots were probably another £30 saved

for 4-pots, it will be a little more expensive as there are an extra 4 pistons on the front axle.

Be careful when you put the new pads in or you may damage the anti-rattle springs. Also, if they are tight at all, use a dremel to grind away some of the metal on the pad so that they are not tight. if you don't, they expand with the heat of braking and will squeak after a while, and can warp your new disc, as happened to one of my fronts!
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  #17  
Old 01-01-2014, 06:31 PM
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Domo2106 Domo2106 is offline
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Mine used to creak when I turned left turned out to be the suspension top mount
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